DOF-turen til Nord-Tibet
	2.-18. september 2000

	af

	Hans Meltofte & Jesper Hornskov

Internetversion

Dansk Ornitologisk Forening
2000

Deltagere på DOF-turen til Qinghai-provinsen i Kina:

DOF-leder: Hans Meltofte
Lokal leder: Jesper Hornskov

Deltagere: Anne-Birgitte Dahl Hansen, Niels Poul Dreyer, Ebbe A. Hansen, Verner Jensen, Ketil Knudsen, Anna-Lis D. Martinussen, Inger Meltofte, Bodil Nørgaard, Jørgen Nørgaard, Per Schiermacher-Hansen og Ingrid B.S. Sørensen.

Vejrrapport
af Niels Poul Dreyer

Dato	Lokalitet	Skydække	Temperatur	Vejrforhold	
3/9	Beijing	1/8	32	Let dis.	
4/9	Xining	5/8	5-12 	Overskyet under flyvningen. Skyet og blæsende i Xining.	
5/9	Dongxia	8/8	12-18	Regnbyger og tåge. Bedre vejr om eftermiddagen.	
6/9	Xining – Koko Nor	8/8-4/8	12-10	Regn om morgenen. Byger i bjergene resten af dagen.	
7/9	Chaka	2/8	10-25	Klart i ørkenen med få skyer.	
8/9	’Gummipasset’	3/8-8/8	10-15	Dis med opklaring. Regnbyge ved Koko Nor kl. 17.	
9/9	Koko Nor – Gonghe	7/8	10-15	Gråvejrsdag med regn om morgenen.	
10/9	Gonghe-Wenquan	5/8-8/8	12-0	Pænt vejr, men regn/slud over 4300 m i Er La passet.	
11/9	Er La passet	8/8-6/8-8/8	0-7	20 cm nysne. Skybase i 4000 m, lettede mellem 14 og 17.	
12/9	Er La – Xining	8/8	-2-9	Frost ved 4400 m indtil kl. 9. Regn det meste af dagen.	
13/9	Xining – Mengda	2/8-5/8	5-20	Optårnede cumulus. Klart om natten.	
14/9	Mengda	0/8	5-20	Smukt vejr.	
15/9	Mengda	1/8	9-25	Cirrustratus om eftermiddagen.	
16/9	Mengda - Xining	1-2/8	10-28	Smuk morgen med få skyer.	
17/9	Xining – Beijing	1/8	15-30	Skyet under det meste af flyvningen. Diset i byerne.	

Dagbog

Sent lørdag eftermiddag den 2. september samledes en lille forventningsfuld skare nedenfor rulletrapperne i terminal 3 i Københavns Lufthavn, Kastrup. Det var den samlede medicinske ekspertise fra Færøerne og Lemvig, som opviste en utrolig energi, en glad nordmand, for hvem selv en flok Skovspurve var en potentiel ny art, en international super-twitcher med en umættelig trang til særekskursioner, en særdeles erfaren mønsk feltornitolog, en ikke mindre erfaren kender af Centralasiens fugle og stærk støtte af Skandinavisk Tobakskompani, to af DOF's hårde kvindelige ornitter med teleskoper i den absolut dyreste ende, en behagelig repræsentant for "Carl Bro Intelligent Solutions" samt en polarforsker og hans uregerlige kone.
	Kl. 19.45 lettede SK 995 fuldlastet mod Peking.  

Søndag morgen den 3. september landede vi efter en nats tvivlsom søvn. I mylderet af mennesker fandt vi en glædestrålende Jesper Hornskov, der havde allieret sig med en meget lille, ældre kinesisk dame og en minibus til at få os fragtet sikkert gennem Pekings rush-hours til Yu Du Hotel i byens vestlige del.
	Turens første programpunkt var et besøg ved Sommerpaladset, som samme dag kunne fejre udnævnelsen til 'World Heritage Site' under FN's Verdensarvkonvention. Blandt mængder af rekreerende kinesere blev der mulighed for at redde sig de første krydser i form af Yellow-bellied Tit, Large-billed Crow, Kinesisk Tophejre, Pied Harrier, Yellow Bittern og Blåskade (ny forskning har vist, at Blåskaderne på Den Iberiske Halvø ikke er forvildede fangenskabsfugle).
	Det var ikke det eneste at bemærke: På bænkene sad kinesiske teenagere optaget af time-lang deep-kissing (det havde ført til time-lang offentlig selvkritik under Mao), og snesevis af kinesere svømmede rundt mellem vandplanter og tomme plasticflasker. Desværre var lotusblomsterne afblomstrede, men den Gule Dværgrørdrum kravlede rundt mellem dens stængler og kæmpeblade. Gråænder, Landsvaler, Husskader, Skovspurve, Små Lappedykkere, Store Flagspætter, en Tårnfalk og en Isfugl sørgede for at tydeliggøre, at vi stadig var på det hjemlige kontinent.
	Om aftenen mæskede vi os i Beijing Roast Duck, og vi fik de første erfaringer med spisepindene.

Mandag den 4. september startede vi tidligt fra hotellet for at sikre, at vi slap gennem Pekings totale traffic-jam i tide til at nå vores fly til Xining. Allerede under indflyvningen kunne vi se, hvordan de lave bjerge omkring byen var totalt ryddet for skov og meget overgræssede, men også at der var genplantningsprojekter mange steder. 
	Efter indkvartering på kæmpehotel i Xining, startede vi i minibus gennem et mudderbad omkring anlægsarbejderne til en ny motorvej nord om byen og videre op i de lave bjerge, Xining Beishan. Allerede her viste Jesper sit utæmmelige gåpåmod ved at lokke os til at kravle op og ned ad de stejle skråninger i eftersøgning af Sinai Karmindompapper, Blue Hill Pigeons og hønsefugle. Det udløste åndenød, men også Fasan og Daurisk Agerhøne som nye arter for de fleste. Alpekrager sås konstant og en Nonnestenpikker sikrede finalen. En fårehyrde sørgede for musikakkompagnement på fløjte.
	Dagen sluttede med et madorgie i talrige kinesiske retter, og mestringen af de svære spisepinde forbedredes mærkbart - bortset fra en enkelt total-kapitulation. Om nogen kapitulerede til de natlige opringninger med tilbud om pikant massage vides derimod ikke. De fleste lærte hurtigt at trække stikket ud hver aften, så man slap for dette udtryk for privat initiativ i det nye Kina.

Tirsdag morgen den 5. september startede vi i bulder mørke og silende regn mod skovområdet Dongxia nord for Xining. 'Morgenmaden' i form af soldaterkiks, valnødder og rosiner, som vi efterhånden skulle lære at acceptere både til morgenmad og frokost, blev indtaget i en lysning i skoven, hvor vi i det spirende morgenlys kunne se og høre fuglenes opvågnen. Heldigvis var regnen holdt op, hvilket holdt sig det meste af dagen, så vi kunne nyde de talrige småfuglearter m.v. i denne fine nåle- og kratskov med 'kæmpehavtorn'. Qinghais 'kronjuveler', Stoliczka's og Crested Tit-Warbler, sås superfint talrige gange. Det samme gjorde Przevalskis Spætmejse sammen med enkelte Kinesiske Spætmejser, og det var ikke sidste gang. Hertil tre fine Lærkefalke, Slagfalk, Rufous-browed Accentor, Blåstjert, problematiske rødstjerter, White-browed Rosefinch, masser af den endemiske Gansu Leaf Warbler samt Hume's, Yellow-streaked og Tickell's Leaf Warblers. Om den lokale variant af Fyrremejse, Songar Tit, skal krydses af som selvstændig art overlades til den enkeltes forgodtbefindende. Dæmningen langs en nedlagt bevandingskanal sikrede fine observationsforhold. På tilbageturen gjorde vi holdt ved Laoyeshan, hvor Elliot's Laughingthrush og et flash af en Stribet Græshoppesanger sås af nogle få. Sidstnævnte tilsyneladende den første forekomst i Qinghai.

Onsdag den 6. september startede eventyret for alvor, da det gik vestpå mod Koko Nor, stepperne og ørknerne. Det blev en formidabel dag, selv om turen startede kl. 06 i øsende regn. I løbet af formiddagen steg vi yderligere 800 m, og vejrtrækningen fik endnu et nøk opad. Snart sås de første Pibeharer og Hume's Groundpeckers, som skulle blive tro følgesvende på det meste af turen. De er begge så sjove, at det er svært at afgøre, om fuglen eller gnaveren skal være favoritten.
	Frokosten, en stor skål fårekødsuppe samt masser af 'muslimsk krydderte' med muskatnødder og frugter, blev indtaget i en lille by, hvor der viste sig at være River Chat samt Plumbeous og Hodgsons Rødstjert bag det offentlige lokum.
	Endelig kom Koko Nor til syne blandt blå bjerge og optårnede kumulusskyer. Lagunen øst for søen nærmest vrimlede med fugle, men Jesper tvang/overtalte os til at vente med at smovse i disse, til vi havde været ude langs sumpen for at se efter tranerne. Spændingen steg efterhånden som flokkene af Rustænder og Indiske Gæs, Atlingænder og bekkasiner (Pin-tailed) blev føjet til listen. Og så stod de der: To Sorthalsede Traner! Men hvor var de to juvenile, som Jesper havde set i august? Kort efter fløj endnu et par voksne fugle ind på scenen med de to ungfugle, og Shangri La var ikke længere en fjern drøm.
	Inden dagen var omme havde vi vederkvæget os med masser af Hvidbrystede Præstekraver, Krumnæbbede, Spidshalede, Langtåede og Temmincksryler, Dam-, Hvid-, Mudder-, Terek- og Sortklirere, Tinksmede og Rødben, Odinshøns, Viber, Klyder, Stylteløbere, Store Kobbersnepper, Stenvendere, Mongolske Præstekraver, Strandhjejler og Sibiriske Tundrahjejler, samt Hvidvingede og Hvidskæggede terner, Sorthalsede, Små og Toppede Lappedykkere, Sølvhejre, Fiskehejre og Sort Stork, Sangsvaner, Rødhovedede og Hvidøjede ænder samt bunker af andre ænder. Hertil Eastern Marsh Harrier, Slagfalk og Højlandsvåge, samt Stor Sorthovedet Måge og Brunhovedet Måge. Endelig en adult Stor Præstekrave, som kun er set nogle få gange før i Qinghai. Småfuglene druknede næsten, men Hvidrygget Snefinke kunne nydes af alle, mens en enkelt Pere Davids Snefinke kun blev set af en enkelt deltager, men til gengæld gav os en flot finale i den sydlige ende af lagunen med masser af fugle og en smukt rød ræv.
	På vejen syd om søen fik vi mulighed for et glimt ind i tibetanske nomadetelte med farvestrålende påklædte kvinder og nysgerrige børn. Hvem der var mest fascinerede af hvem, må stå hen i det uvisse. Tusinder af får og hundreder af yakokser var eksistensgrundlaget. Gødning leverede den sparsomme varme fra et sindrigt indrettet fyrsted, hvor kolortene tørrer efterhånden som de rykker nærmere ilden.
	Indkvartering på 'karavansaraj' i Heimahe og sen aftensmad i separatkabinetter i nærliggende restaurant, hvor Jesper er stamkunde.

Torsdag den 7. september stod den for alvor på ørken- og steppefugle. Masochismen fik endnu en tand, da vi blev jaget op kl. 04.30 og kørte i godt en time, inden vi kunne 'nyde' dumplings, æg og soldaterkiks i bulder ravende mørke under en stjerneklar himmel. Med det første morgengry gik turen ud i ørkenen, og det varede ikke længe inden de første Steppehøns dukkede op, og endnu en vigtig art var føjet til listen. Mange flere Steppehøns fløj hid og did, uden at nogen fik gode obs på jorden, men det fik vi til gengæld af Isabellastenpikker, Ørkenstenpikker, Blanfords Snefinke og sidst, men ikke mindst den totale kulmination med fire Henderson's Ground Jays. Og så var der også guf til de feinschmekkere, der ka' li' lærker og pibere, og pattedyrene var repræsenterede ved adskillige 'uldne harer' med kæmpeører.
	Et stop ved en tidligere 'folkekommune' (/interneringslejr?) i bagende sol midt på dagen gav fine Kirkeugler, Isabellatornskade, Grey-backed Shrike, Karmindompap, en fin flok Ørkenspurve, Vendehals samt glimt af en Yellow-rumped Flycatcher som ny art for Tibet/Qinghai. På vejen hjem sås tusindtallige flokke af Humes Korttåede Lærker, og gennem 'Gummipasset' fik vi fine obs af den første Lammegrib og den første Himalayagrib.
	De endnu duelige sluttede dagen med en tur ned til bredden af Koko Nor, hvor de foruden mange vandfugle scorede en ung Pallas Havørn i det sene aftenlys.

Fredag den 8. september gik turen tilbage til 'Gummipasset', men denne gang for at kratluske op til 3600 m i bjergene. Her havde flere efterhånden fået så meget tynd luft, at grøn stær pillerne måtte frem. Truende vædskefyldte poser under øjnene, kvalme og vedvarende hovedpine forsvandt på mirakuløs vis i løbet af blot en halv time.
	Den ihærdige indsats gav pote: White-browed Tit, superfine Alashan/Przevalski's Redstarts, Blue-fronted Redstarts, Przevalski's Rosefinch/Pink-tailed Buntings og to helt formidable Murløbere i sangflugt og display var blandt højdepunkterne. Rosy Pipit og tre arter jernspurve var også bemærkelsesværdige. Et kig ind i den næste dal gav fine obs af Slagfalk.
	Efter hjemkomsten lavede de mest ihærdige endnu en særekskursion til søbredden, hvilket gav gensyn med Pallas Havørn samt Far-eastern Curlew, men også en tordenskylle.

Lørdag den 9. september begyndte med regn, hvor vi kørte tilbage langs sydsiden af Koko Nor, men heldigvis klarede det op, og vi kunne gå en tur langs lagunen øst for søen. Det gav to Gråklirerer måske for første gang i Qinghai og endelig adulte Pere Davids Snefinker. Flere fik en gensyn med de Sorthalsede Traner, og alle fik en formidabel oplevelse med en Eversmans Ilder, der jagtede Pibeharer. Og så var der religiøst, tibetansk marked i en by længere mod nord, hvilket medførte en stadig og massiv strøm af munke og andet godtfolk i alt hvad der kunne hoste og hakke nordpå ad vejen. Vinken og smil samt tusinder af små papirs-bedeflag blev spredt for alle vinde.
	Vi kørte videre ad vejen mod øst og drejede siden mod syd, hvor et stop i bjergene gav fine obs af Tibetanske Snefinker, Rufous-necked ditto og Stenspurve. Samme sted var en kanelfarvet lækat i gang med at slæbe en dræbt pibehare ned i sit hul, og enkelte fik et glimt af et Himalayamurmeldyr.
	Indkvartering i 'hotelkaserne' i Gonghe. 

Søndag den 10. september kørte vi ud til en wadi lige udenfor byen. Den var omgivet af små marker, lunde og vandfyldte opstemninger. Her var der bl.a. Black-faced Bunting, Vandrikse, Daurisk Agerhøne, Grey-backed Shrike og Vandrefalk.
	Herfra gik det over stepper og gennem ørkener, og vi gjorde holdt ved et nyopført lamakloster, hvor der blandt de mange fascinerende ting var et billede af et meditativt, siddende samleje. Måske værd at prøve, men det kræver nok temmelig megen tålmodighed?
	Efter en stor skål 'hot' kødsuppe med tilhørende 'muslimsk te' i en restaurant med et kæmpe billede af kabaen på hele den ene endevæg og Mongolske Lærker i bur gik turen ud til en kløft med en rivende elv i bunden. Det var noget af et smørhul med fire arter karmindompapper, Bjergirisker, Tibetanske Snefinker, Robin Accentor, River Chat, Güldenstadts Rødstjert og Vandstær.
	Og så gik det op mod Er La passet, hvor vi stoppede halvvejs oppe for at nyde udsigten med Himalayagribbe, larmende murmeldyr og tibetanske nomader. En kvinde med to børn kom op til os på vejen for at studere disse mærkelige mennesker med alle deres dyre instrumenter og underlige sprog. Imens benyttede yakokserne lejligheden til at hærge lejren.
	Et kort stop i selve passet (4489 m.o.h.) gav allerede en forsmag på, hvad der ventede næste dag: Tåge og sne!
	Indkvartering i lastbilchauffør-hotel i Wenquan (3800 m.o.h.), hvor Jesper lejede samtlige værelser for at sikre os en god nats søvn uden larmende lastbiler og ditto kinesere. Stærkest i erindringen står nok 'lokummerne', hvor lortepyramiden var vokset op gennem hullet i gulvet.
	Nudelsuppe i hotellets restaurant, hvor fåret til suppen blev slagtet lige udenfor døren. Om ikke før, så kom soveposerne i brug her, så vi kunne holde varmen på de noget kolde og klamme rum.

Mandag den 11. september var turens absolutte nedtur. I Wenquan havde det regnet hele natten, hvilket var ensbetydende med sne højere oppe. Er La passet og de omgivende bjerge var indhyllede i tætte skyer og dækkede af sne. På trods af alle odds trampede vi op mod bjergkammen (knap 5000 m.o.h.), hvor der ofte ses Tibetansk Kongehøne, Tibetansk Sandhøne, Tibetansk Gazelle og Blå Får. Desvaerre sås praktisk taget intet, når bortses fra sporene i sneen efter syv kongehøns og adskillige ræve.
	Det var en hård tur, hvor vi måtte stoppe for hver 30-50 m for at få vejret og få hjertet ned i omdrejninger. Det klarede noget op i løbet af dagen, hvilket tillod os at nyde den formidable udsigt men også gav problemer. Flere havde trods formaninger ikke medbragt solbriller, og de færreste havde smurt sig tilstrækkelig grundigt ind i solcreme. På et tidspunkt var de fleste nærmest blå-violette i ansigterne, og lyset var så stærkt, at kameraet viste 1/4000 på blænde 11 og en 100 ASA film!
	Enkelte Bjerglærker og Højlandsvåger samt en smuk Lammegrib var eneste trøst.
	Et forsøg på at redde dagen med en Ibisnæb ved elven nedenfor Wenquan mislykkede også.

Tirsdag den 12. september blev dagen derpå. For fire deltagere udviklede natten sig til et mareridt, hvor øjnene smertede mere og mere og væsken løb i stride strømme. Sneblindheden var så slem, at de måtte sidde i bussen med tøj omkring hovedet, og det mindste lys føltes som knive i øjnene. De fleste af os var tillige blevet mere eller mindre solskoldede - endog helt op i næseborene, inde i skægget og under hagen - og vi lignede nærmest kogte tomater i hovederne. Alle skiftede 'ham' i løbet af de følgende dage.
	Halvdelen af os var så hårdt angrebne, at de valgte at blive i bussen, da vi skulle ud for at se, om vi kunne redde noget af det tabte fra dagen før på lavere højde under passet, hvor der var mindre sne. Bedre blev det ikke af, at denne ekskursion begyndte med den mest rystende oplevelse på hele turen - i meget bogstavelig forstand. Knap var vi kommet ud af bussen og begyndt at gå ned ad skråningen langs vejen, før alt begynde at ryste under fødderne på os og en dyb buldren hørtes. Ingen fattede en brik af, hvad der foregik. Jørgen, der er læge, troede han fik en hjerneblødning, og selv gik jeg helt i sort. Ingen af os havde nogensinde oplevet et jordskælv, og har man ikke det, så kan man ganske enkelt ikke fatte, at jorden begynder at bevæge sig under en. Det må være inde i ens eget hoved, der er noget galt!
	Længe varede det selvfølgelig ikke, før vi fattede, hvad der var sket, og i løbet af de næste par timer havde vi lejlighed til at repetere oplevelsen 17 gange, hver gang fulgt af en dyb buldren. Nogen gange bevægede jorden sig op og ned, andre gange sideværts. Senere erfarede vi, at epicentret havde været kun 50 km væk, og at styrken havde været 6,6 på Richter-skalaen. Der havde kun været materiel skade, formentlig takket være det øde landskab, hvor de fleste bor i telte.
	Men fugleturen var der ikke noget i vejen med. Det lykkedes at se langt de fleste af de småfugle, som vi var kommet efter, men ingen af 'hønsefuglene' eller pattedyrene. Det nærmest vrimlede med småfugle kronet med Roborovskis Karmindompapper samt Brandt's Mountain Finches, Hvidryggede og Europæiske Snefinker.
	Det småregnede næsten hele dagen.
	Fra Er La passet gik turen tilbage over stepperne og gennem ørkenerne. Frokosten var igen brændende 'hot' kødsuppe med udsigt til Kabaen, og sent på aftenen nåede vi Xining, hvor vi kunne få et hårdt tiltrængt bad og nyde civiliserede forhold - incl. de natlige opringninger med pikante tilbud.

Onsdag den 13. september gik turen til Mengda via den Gule Flod. Det var en 'omkørsel' p.g.a. vejarbejde, men det viste sig at være en god investering, idet vi 'løb ind i' et pænt rovfugletræk med 65 Sorte Glenter, 3 Dværgørne og 17 Østlige Hvepsevåger samt flere hundrede Blue Hill Pigeons.
	Den gule flod levede til fulde op til sit navn: Her var Kinas frugtbare jord tydeligvis på vej ud i havet.
	Vi nåede frem til Mengda ved mørkets frembrud, og da pensionatet ved indgangen var lukket, hyrede Jesper en flok muldyr til at fragte vores bagage og enkelte 'luksusturister' op ad den stejle stigning til søen. Efter en hård opstigning kunne vi blot konstatere, at 'pensionatet' her også var lukket. Ja, det var faktisk revet ned, og de var ved at bygge et nyt. På det tidspunkt var Jespers ellers så urokkelige gåpåmod vist ved at være brugt op, men det lykkedes at få startet 'udflugtsbåden' på søen og i bulder ravende mørke få os fragtet over til den anden ende af søen, hvor vi blev indkvarteret på gulvet i hytter og fik en sen gang nudelsuppe til aftensmad.

Torsdag den 14. september stod den så på twitching i skoven omkring søen. Vi startede med at kravle rundt langs den østlige bred og brugte så resten af dagen i den fine skov nord og nordøst herfor samt en aftentur op i dalen syd for søen, hvor vi dog så meget få fugle. Efter 'nedturen' i Er La passet var den internationale super-twitcher så desperat, at han startede dagen med at proklamere, at nu skulle der "Birdes til jeg styrter" - og det gjorde han så tre dage senere efter ikke at have undt sig selv et ordentligt måltid mad i lige så mange dage!
	Især morgenen var fin med masser af Long-tailed Minivets, Nøddekriger og Skovskader. Oven i hatten Sneduer, Przevalskis Spætmejse og en Stor Skrigeørn. Sneduerne var formentlig den første forekomst i området og muligvis den hidtil nordligste forekomst i Qinghai.

Fredag den 15. september begyndte med et par nedture. Fire kinesere havde drukket (og spillet høj musik) hele natten, og herunder brugt alt det kogende vand, som vi skulle have haft til morgenkaffe og -te. Jesper rev for en sikkerheds skyld hovedet af dem! Dernæst kom båden ikke som aftalt, så vi måtte endnu engang kravle rundt langs bredden.
	Resten af morgenen og formiddagen afsøgte vi skoven ned til og ind i en sidedal nord for søen. Der var både meget smukt og masser af fugle, med Langhalet Karmindompap, tre arter laughingtrushes, White-crested Tit-Warbler og Lærkefalk.
	Vi talte trappetrinnene op til søen igen: 1485! Lækker nudelsuppe med Kongeørne!
	Eftermiddagsturen gik atter mod nordøst, hvor vi havde en superfin oplevelse med en stor hun-Duehøg, der blev mobbet af 10 Nøddekriger og to Giant Laughingtrushes. I skoven desuden Gråhovedet Dompap og Daurisk Rødstjert.
	Tre die-hards scorede Severtzov's Grouse!

Lørdag den 16. september gav spillende Blå Ørefasaner til morgenkaffen. Vi hørte dem dog kun, mens vores kinesiske chauffør og guide havde stået og set på en flok på 10 nede ved parkeringspladsen dagen før! Tilbage over søen og ned i sidedalen nord for: Ashy Pigeons! Pere David's og Elliot's laughingtrushes set fint.
	Så gik det tilbage mod Xining via 'Grand Canyon' med den Gule Flod, men først skulle vi lige have et ordentlig look på Godlewskis Klippeværling, som vi jo kun fik et usselt glimt af nord for Xining den 4. Masser af Klippesvaler.
	Frokosten blev indtaget i en lille by på vejen. For de flestes vedkommende bestod den af en kæmpe portion spaghetti - helt klart det bedste måltid siden vi forlod Xining! På restauranten havde de cikader i små flettede bure til at synge for gæsterne. 
	Videre over to pas i op til 3300 m's højde: Tre fine Lammegribbe og en flok Hvidkindede Værlinger. Valnødder, tørrede abrikoser & haardkogte aeg til aftensmad! Superflot stjernehimmel. 'Hjemme' på kæmpehotellet i Xining godt trætte sent om aftenen.

Søndag den 17. september startede hjemrejsen. Dagen begyndte med et mangfoldigt tag-selv-bord til morgenmad og en lang bustur til lufthavnen, hvor vi tog afsked med vores kinesiske guide og chauffør, som begge blev påskønnet for deres flotte indsats. Splinternyt fly til Peking, hvor vi fløj det meste af tiden over Gobiørkenen og til sidst kunne se Den Store Mur.
	Tilbage i 'civilisationen': Kæmpe lufthavn, menneskemylder, traffic jam, indkøbsmekka i Friendship Store, kager og kaffe. Sen eftermiddagstur til Den Himmelske Freds Plads med drageflyvere, lommetyve og sælgere af frosset vand.
	Yu Du Hotel med kæmpesmovs i Beijing Roast Duck og kinesisk brændevin (= grisepis i følge en deltager, der er forvent med franske specialiteter). Takketale for Jesper, som havde ydet en kæmpeflot og utrættelig indsats for at vi alle kunne få så meget ud af turen som muligt. Applaus!

Mandag den 18. september: Afrejse! Men først kinesisk morgenmad, afsked med professoren og hans diminutive kone og et par timers trafikpropper. SK 996 tilbage over Mongoliet, Vestsibirien, Rusland, Estland, Østersøen, Sverige, Øresund, Saltholm ..... Afsked!

Livet er ikke lutter lagkage - der er også flødeskum på engang imellem!

Annotated bird list 
by Jesper Hornskov.

The following list is based on our daily log. The concept bird-days is used for convenience: it is the avian equivalent of man-hours - the daily totals added up to give a handy measure of relative abundance: a pair of Golden Eagles seen four days running equals eight bird-days. The abbreviation cy denotes age in calendar years. 1 cy is year of hatching etc.

Little Grebe  Tachybaptus ruficollis
  Six at Summer Palace, Beijing, on 3rd; at Koko Nor lagoon 2-3 on 6th & four on 9th.

Great Crested Grebe  Podiceps cristatus
  c50 on both visits to Koko Nor lagoon, and two at Heimahe on 8th.

Black-necked Grebe  P. nigricollis
  At Koko Nor lagoon ten on 6th & c35 on 9th.

Great Cormorant  Phalacrocorax carbo
  c10-50 daily in the Koko Nor area over 6-9th.

Yellow Bittern  Ixobrychus sinensis
  A juvenile was seen well in a lotus bed at Summer Palace, Beijing, on 3rd.

Black-crowned Night Heron  Nycticorax nycticorax
  Ten at Summer Palace, Beijing, on 3rd.

Chinese Pond Heron  Ardeola bacchus
  Eight at Summer Palace, Beijing, on 3rd.

Little Egret  Egretta garzetta
  One at Summer Palace, Beijing, on 3rd was the only record.

Great Egret  E. alba
  At Koko Nor lagoon two on 6th & one on 9th; at Heimahe one on 8th (NPD).

Grey Heron  Ardea cinerea
  20-25 at Koko Nor lagoon on 6th, and c15 there on 9th.

Black Stork  Ciconia nigra
  Singles at Koko Nor lagoon on 6th & over Mengda (JH) on 14th.

Whooper Swan  Cygnus cygnus
  At Koko Nor lagoon 15 on 6th & 17 on 9th.
  17 birds were present at the site as early as 6 August 2000 (JH pers. obs.).

Greylag Goose  Anser anser
  22 at Koko Nor lagoon on 9th.

Bar-headed Goose  A. indicus
  c615 bird-days in the Koko Nor area over 6-9th, max c400 at Heimahe on 8th.

Ruddy Shelduck  Tadorna ferruginea
  c320 bird-days at Koko Nor over 6-9th, max c200 at Heimahe on 8th.

Eurasian Wigeon  Anas penelope
  Ten at Koko Nor lagoon on 6+9th, and seven at Heimahe on 7th.

Common Teal  A. crecca
  At Koko Nor lagoon c1,000 on both 6+9th, at Heimahe 60+ on 7th & c500 on 8th, and at Gonghe nine on 10th.

Mallard  A. platyrhynchos
  15-20 at Summer Palace, Beijing, on 3rd, 7-c10 at Heimahe on both 7+8th, and 20 at Koko Nor lagoon on 9th.

Spot-billed Duck  A. poecilorhyncha zonorhyncha
  Two in flight over the Koko Nor lagoon/marsh area on 9th was the only sighting.

Northern Pintail  A. acuta
  122+ bird-days at Koko Nor, and one at Gonghe on 10th.

Garganey  A. querquedula
  At the Koko Nor lagoon/marsh area c100 on 6th & c25 on 9th; at Heimahe one on 7th.

Northern Shoveler  A. clypeata
  c25 at Koko Nor lagoon on 6th, and 30 there on 9th.

Red-crested Pochard  Netta rufina
  c600 at Koko Nor lagoon on 6+9th.

Common Pochard  Aythya ferina
  At Koko Nor lagoon c300 on 6th & c100 on 9th.

Ferruginous Duck  A. nyroca
  At Koko Nor lagoon five on 6th & four on 9th.

Tufted Duck  A. fuligula
  c80 bird-days in the Koko Nor area over 6-9th, max 40 at the lagoon on 9th.

Common Goldeneye  Bucephala clanga
  At Koko Nor lagoon two on 6th & one on 9th.

Goosander  Mergus merganser
  Nine at Heimahe on 8th, three at Koko Nor lagoon on 9th.

Crested Honey Buzzard  Pernis ptilorhyncus
  58 in total over 13-16th: though not entirely unexpected it was considered a bonus to see raptors on the move, skirting the Plateau, as we ourselves moved S on 13th... 17 birds en route on 13th; at Mengda 30 on 14th, eight on 15th & three on 16th.

Black Kite  Milvus migrans
  Singles at Laoye Shan on 5th & at Koko Nor lagoon on 9th, 2-3 en route on both 10+12th, c65 migr. S of Minhe on 13th, 32 mostly migr. at Mengda the next day, one there on 15th, and 13 migr. over Huang He valley on 16th.

Pallas's Fish Eagle  Haliaeetus leucoryphus
  1st-year birds performed at Heimahe (7+8th) & at Koko Nor lagoon (9th).

Lammergeier  Gypaetus barbatus
  Seven bird-days. Seen on five dates at Rubber Mt., The Gully, Er La pass, and (most memorably: two adults with a juvenile right overhead against a bluer-than-blue sky) Huang He valley.

Himalayan Griffon  Gyps himalayensis
  46+ bird-days. Recorded on eight dates, daily max 18 at Mengda/Huang He valley on 16th.

Eastern Marsh Harrier  Circus (aeruginosus) spilonotus
  Single juveniles at Koko Nor lagoon on 6+9th were outnumbered by Western Marsh Harrier C. aeruginosus:
six (two adult males w/ four 1st cy birds) at Koko Nor lagoon on 6th & one 1st cy bird over lakeside fields on 6th, one 1st cy bird at Heimahe on 8th, and four (two adult males w/ two 1st cy birds) on our second visit to Koko Nor lagoon.

Pied Harrier  C. melanoleucos
  Single 1st-year birds were noted at Summer Palace, Beijing, on 3rd & at Heimahe on 8th.
  There are very few previous records for Tibet.

Northern Goshawk  Accipiter gentilis
  Singletons on 13th (migr. over roadside watch point S of Minhe), 14th (a male) & 15th (a huge 1st-year female harrassed by up to ten Nutcrackers as it went to roost in a dead tree on a forested hillside at Mengda).

Eurasian Sparrowhawk  A. nisus
  39+ bird-days. Singles noted W of Koko Nor on 7+8th, five were seen migr. S of Minhe on 13th, while Mengda yielded c25 (mostly migr.) on 14th, four on 15th & 3+ on 16th.

Common Buzzard  Buteo buteo
  One was seen in forest N of Xining on 5th, and Mengda yielded up to 2+ daily over 14-16th.

Upland Buzzard  B. hemilasius
  64+ bird-days. Noted on nine dates at Xining airport, in the Koko Nor area (daily max c14 on 6th), at Gonghe, over The Gully, in the Er La pass/Wenquan area & en route (incl. two N of Huang He on 13th).

Spotted Eagle  Aquila clanga
  A 2-3rd cy pseudo-fulvescens morph bird over Mengda in the early morning of 14th was a treat.

Golden Eagle  A. chrysaetos
  Eight bird-days. Noted on five dates. At least three birds were present in the Mengda area.

Booted Eagle  Hieraaetus pennatus
  Three (two dark- & one intermediate morph birds) migr. S of Minhe on 13th, and one over Mengda the next day.

Eurasian Kestrel  Falco tinnunculus
  37+ bird-days. Noted on 13 dates, incl. on 3rd at Summer Palace, Beijing, where up to two birds competed with Large-billed Crows for the best perch high on one of the imperial buildings.

Eurasian Hobby  F. subbuteo
  Three juveniles together at forest edge N of Xining on 5th & one over Mengda on 15th.

Saker  F. cherrug
  12 bird-days. Seen on eight dates at Xining airport, daily in the Koko Nor/Rubber Mt. area (seven bird-days), at Gonghe, Er La pass & S of Heka.

Peregrine  F. peregrinus
  An adult perched ("as if it owned the place!") above the road at Gonghe on 10th & one or two birds present at Mengda on 14+16th.

Severtzov's Grouse  Bonasia sewerzowi
  Two seen well at Mengda on 15th (NPD, KK, IBSS).

[Tibetan Snowcock  Tetraogallus tibetanus
  Tracks of six birds in the snow at Er La pass confirmed the species' continued presence there...]
  
Daurian Partridge  Perdix dauurica
  15 at Xining Beishan on 4th; c12 (of which several yielded 'scope views) at Gonghe on 10th.

Blue Eared Pheasant  Crossoptilon auritum
  Heard at Mengda on both 15th & 16th (up to 6+ birds).

Common Pheasant  Phasanius colchicus
  27 bird-days. Noted at Xining Beishan, in forest N of Xining, at Gonghe, en route S of Minhe, at Mengda &
in the Huang He valley.

Water Rail  Rallus aquaticus
  Superb views of one at the edge of a reedbed at Gonghe on 10th constituted one of the off-beat highlights of the trip.

Coot  Fulica atra
  At Koko Nor the lagoon/marsh held c100 on 6th & c130 on 9th while Heimahe yielded just two on 8th.

Black-necked Crane  Grus nigricollis
  Four adults and two still plain-headed juveniles at Koko Nor on 6th, and two adults there on 9th.
  Memories of these stately birds seen at close range will be long-lived.

Black-winged Stilt  Himantopus himantopus
  One at Koko Nor lagoon on 6th.

Pied Avocet  Recurvirostra avosetta
  At Koko Nor lagoon 15 on 6th & c10 on 9th.

Little Ringed Plover  Charadrius dubius
  One at Heimahe on 7th.

Common Ringed Plover  C. hiaticula
  An adult in summer plumage was at Koko Nor lagoon on 6th (PS-H et al.).
  The species has been seen  in Tibet on perhaps only a handful of previous occasions.

Kentish Plover  C. alexandrinus
  175+ bird-days in the Koko Nor area over 6-9th.

Mongolian Plover  C. mongolus
  At the Koko Nor lagoon c15 on 6th & two on 9th.

Pacific Golden Plover  Pluvialis fulva
  At the Koko Nor lagoon/marsh c20 on 6th & ten on 9th.

Grey Plover  P. squatarola
  At the Koko Nor lagoon c4 on 6th & one (heard: PS-H) on 9th.

Northern Lapwing  Vanellus vanellus
  In the Koko Nor lagoon/marsh area c40 on 6th & c8 on 9th.

[Little Stint  Calidris minuta
  A juvenile stint seen briefly at Koko Nor lagoon (PS-H) on 6th was either this species or Red-necked Stint  
C. ruficollis. 
  The former species outnumbers the latter by 30:1 in the Zaidam basin, not far W of Koko Nor (JH pers. obs.).]

Temminck's Stint  C. temminckii
  c6-20+ daily in the Koko Nor area (61+ bird-days in total) - elsewhere just one at Gonghe on 10th & four farther S the same day.

Long-toed Stint  C. subminuta
  We eventually managed to find a juvenile bird at the Koko Nor lagoon on 6th (and all agreed that it was almost essential to see it alongside a marker species for safe differentiation, on size, from the following species!). A further two birds were noted in the same area (PS-H) on 9th.

Sharp-tailed Sandpiper  C. acuminata
  c5 at the Koko Nor lagoon on 6th.

Curlew Sandpiper  C. ferruginea
  At the Koko Nor lagoon c35 (five adults & c30 juveniles) on 6th & c10 on 9th; at Heimahe just one seen, on 8th.

Ruff  Philomachus pugnax
  At the Koko Nor lagoon/marsh area 13+ on 6th & four (PS-H) on 9th; at Heimahe just one on 7th.

Common Snipe  Gallinago gallinago
  Three at Heimahe on 8th.

Pintail Snipe  G. stenura
  Two at the Koko Nor lagoon/marsh on 6th & one at Heimahe on 8th.

Black-tailed Godwit  Limosa limosa
  At the Koko Nor lagoon c50 on 6th & c20 on 9th.

Eurasian Curlew  Numenius arquata
  Ten at Heimahe on 8th.

Far Eastern Curlew  N. madagascariensis
  One at Heimahe (JH) on 8th was an unexpected find.

Spotted Redshank  Tringa erythropus
  1-3+ noted on three dates at Koko Nor.

Common Redshank  T. totanus
  15-c75 daily at Koko Nor over 6-9th, and singles at the ex-commune on 7th & at Gonghe on 10th.

Marsh Sandpiper  T. stagnatilis
  At the Koko Nor lagoon three on 6th & two on 9th.
Greenshank  T. nebularia
  At the Koko Nor lagoon c25 on 6th & c10 on 9th, at Heimahe one on 8th & at Gonghe one on 10th.

Green Sandpiper  T. ochropus
  Single birds noted on five dates at Heimahe, Gonghe, Wenquan & Huang He.

Wood Sandpiper  T. glareola
  c5-20 daily at Koko Nor over 6-9th, and one at Wenquan on 11th.

Terek Sandpiper  Xenus cinereus
  Two at the Koko Nor lagoon on 6th.

Common Sandpiper  Actitis hypoleucos
  Singles at Koko Nor on 6+8+9th.

Grey-tailed Tattler  Heteroscelus brevipes
  Two unwary juveniles 'scoped & photographed at Koko Nor on 9th may have been the first recorded in Tibet.

Ruddy Turnstone  Arenaria interpres
  Two at Koko Nor lagoon on 6+9th.

Red-necked Phalarope  Phalaropus lobatus
  At Koko Nor lagoon 13 on 6th & 14 on 9th; at Heimahe two on 8th.

Great Black-headed Gull  Larus ichthyaetus
  60+ in total at Koko Nor over 6-9th, and five in flight over Rubber Mt. on 8th.

Black-headed Gull  L. ridibundus
  Different singles at the Koko Nor lagoon on 6+9th.

Brown-headed Gull  L. brunnicephalus
  1-3 daily at Koko Nor.

Common Tern  Sterna hirundo
  2+-10 birds noted daily at Koko Nor over 6-9th.

Little Tern  S. albifrons
  At the Koko Nor lagoon one on 6th (JH) & two on 9th (A-LDM).

Whiskered Tern  Chlidonias hybridus
  Noted only at the Koko Nor lagoon/marsh area: four (one adult, three 1st cy birds) on 6th & c6 on 9th.

White-winged Black Tern  C. leucopterus
  70+ bird-days: c15-25 recorded daily at Koko Nor over 6-9th.

Pallas's Sandgrouse  Syrrhaptes paradoxus
  25+ in desert W of Koko Nor on 7th.

Blue Hill Pigeon  Columba rupestris
  1,045+ bird-days. Noted on ten dates, with impressive flocks of c450 birds both at Gonghe on 10th & at roadside
raptor migration watch point on 13th as the main events.

Snow Pigeon  C. leuconota
  Ten swirling about in front of (and landing repeatedly on) a Mengda cliff face on 14th were apparently the first-ever for the area and possibly the N-most ever in Qinghai.

Ashy Wood Pigeon  C. pulchricollis
  At Mengda one on 15th (KK) & five on 16th.
  Only one previous record for Qinghai.

Collared Dove  Streptopelia decaocto
  Three at Summer Palace, Beijing, on 3rd, three en route on 13th, and four near Xunhua on 16th.

Oriental Turtle Dove  S. orientalis
  One at Summer Palace, Beijing, on 3rd (KK), one at the roadside raptor migration watch point on 13th (JH), and 2-3 at Mengda on 14+15th.

Spotted Dove  S. chinensis
  Four at Summer Palace, Beijing, on 3rd.

Common Cuckoo  Cuculus canorus
  Singles noted on 4th (Xining Beishan), 9th (along the Koko Nor) & 13th (roadside raptor migration watchpoint).

Little Owl  Athene noctua
  Singles at Koko Nor on 6+9th, two at the ex-commune on 7th, and one at Gonghe on 10th.

[Grey Nightjar  Caprimulgus indicus
  A bird seen poorly at Mengda on 14th was most likely this species (NPD).]

Common Kingfisher  Alcedo atthis
  One at Summer Palace, Beijing, on 3rd.

Hoopoe  Upopa epops
  62+ bird-days. Noted on nine dates - daily max 20 on 7th.

Wryneck  Jynx torquilla
  One - a migrant - was present at the ex-commune on 7th.

Grey-headed Woodpecker  Picus canus
  One near Huang He on 13th & 1-2 daily at Mengda over 14-15th.

Black Woodpecker  Dryocupus martius
  2+ at Mengda on 14th.

Great Spotted Woodpecker  Dendrocopos major
  Two at Summer Palace, Beijing, on 3rd; five bird-days at Mengda over 13-15th.

Long-billed Calandra Lark  Melanocorypha maxima
  c100 bird-days at Koko Nor, where the species proved particularly easy to see at Heimahe.

Mongolian Lark  M. mongolica
  Two were seen at close range in desert W of Koko Nor on 7th, and one was seen en route along Koko Nor on 9th (JH).

Hume's Short-toed Lark  Calandrella acutirostris
  Noted on seven dates, with a daily max of c2,000 (incl. a midday flock of 1,000+) in desert W of Koko Nor on 7th - dense flocks of up to c80 birds heading S were very much a feature of the morning spent searching for Henderson's Ground Jay etc. Smaller numbers also recorded at the Koko Nor lagoon/marsh, Heimahe, Rubber Mt., Gonghe & Er La pass.
  At Golmud, in the Zaidam basin, the species was common in autumn from 17 August to 26 September (max c1,050 on 30 Aug 1992), with most birds actively migrating though some also came in to drink (largest flock
c270 on 3 Sep 1994): JH pers. obs.

Asian Short-toed Lark  C. (rufescens) cheleensis
  Two in desert W of Koko Nor on 7th & two at Gonghe on 10th.

Crested Lark  Galerida cristata
  One at Gonghe on 10th (JH).

Oriental Skylark  Alauda gulgula
  Noted on at least six dates, mainly in the Koko Nor/Rubber Mt. area.

Horned Lark  Eremophila alpestris
  Noted on seven dates on the plateau, daily max c100 on 7th.

Pale Sand Martin  Riparia (riparia) diluta
  c125 bird-days. Noted at the Koko Nor lagoon/marsh (where max c100 on 6th possibly included c5 Sand Martin R. riparia: EAH), Heimahe (2-5 daily over 7-8th), The Gully & Wenquan.

Crag Martin  Hirundo rupestris
  c130 bird-days. Recorded at Xining Beishan, The Gully, Wenquan, Mengda (c12 on 15th & eight on 16th) & along the Huang He (c15 on 13th, c85 on 16th).

Barn Swallow  H. rustica
  Recorded only in the Beijing area: c10 on both 3rd (Summer Palace) & 4th (airport).

Red-rumped Swallow  H. daurica
  c10 were over the runways at Beijing airport on 4th.

Asian House Martin  Delichon dasypus
  Four performed at The Gully on 10th; three at a bridge en route on 12th.

Richard's Pipit  Anthus richardi
  c19 bird-days: seen daily in the Koko Nor/Rubber Mt. area over 6-9th, and also at Gonghe on 10th (two birds).

Blyth's Pipit  A. godlewskii
  183+ bird-days. Noted on eight days: three N of Xining on 5th, c15-55 daily in the Koko Nor area over 6-9th, 16 in the desert & two at the ex-commune on 7th, two at Gonghe & three en route on 10th, 15 at Wenquan on 11th, and 2-5 daily at Er La pass over 11-12th.

Olive-backed Pipit  A. hodgsoni
  50+ bird-days. Noted on eight days at Xining Beishan, forest N of Xining, ex-commune, Rubber Mt., Koko Nor lagoon, Gonghe, Wenquan & Mengda.

Rosy Pipit  A. roseatus
  10-15 at Heimahe on both 7+8th, ten at Rubber Mt. on 8th, and one at Wenquan on 11th.

Citrine Wagtail  Motacilla citreola
  c80 bird-days. Noted on 7 dates at Koko Nor (daily max c40 at Heimahe on 8th), in the desert & at the ex-commune on 7th, on Rubber Mt., at Gonghe, at The Temple, Er La pass, Wenquan & Mengda.

Grey Wagtail  M. cinerea
  Ten bird-days: two in the Koko Nor area on 6th, one at the ex-commune on 7th, singles at Gonghe & at The Temple on 10th, three along the Huang He on 13th, and two at Mengda on 14th.

White Wagtail  M. alba
  129+ bird-days. Seen daily, with max c20 en route on 6th.

Long-tailed Minivet  Pericrocotus ethologus
  At Mengda c15 on 14th & c5 on 15th.

White-throated Dipper  Cinclus cinclus
  Singles at The Gully on 10th & at Mengda village on 16th.

Wren  Troglodytes troglodytes
  Three in total at Mengda.

Rufous-browed Accentor  Prunella strophiata
  Five in forest N of Xining on 5th & 3+ at Rubber Mt. on 8th.

Brown Accentor  P. fulvescens
  Seven at Rubber Mt. on 8th, four on Gonghe pass on 9th, four at The Gully on 10th & one en route on 12th.

Robin Accentor  P. rubeculoides
  c35 bird-days. Noted on five dates at Rubber Mt. (c15 on 8th), Gonghe pass, Heka pass, The Gully & Er La pass
(c10 on 11th & one the next day).

Red-flanked Bluetail  Tarsiger cyanurus
  Five in forest N of Xining on 5th, and one at Mengda on 14th.

Przevalski's Redstart  Phoenicurus alashanicus
  Hard work near Heimahe paid off on 8th when two males & one female were located shortly after we'd reached 
habitat - all members of the group agreed that seeing a pretty male of this restricted-range species at such close range was one of the highlights of the trip.

Black Redstart  P. ochruros
  c125 bird-days. Recorded on ten dates at Xining Beishan, in the Koko Nor area (max c10 on 9th), on Rubber Mt., in the desert, at the ex-commune, Gonghe, The Gully, Er La pass, Wenquan & in the Huang He valley - typically most common between sites: 30+ were seen en route S of Gonghe on 10th, perching on roadside wires
and clumps of earth, with an occasional Guldenstadt's Redstart associating with some gatherings.

Hodgson's Redstart  P. hodgsoni
  Four at the Plumbeous Redstart site on 6th, three en route S of Minhe on 13th, up to 15 daily at Mengda over
14-16th & two at Xunhua on 16th.

Blue-fronted Redstart  P. frontalis
  Two N of Xining on 5th & c20 on Rubber Mt. on 8th.

White-throated Redstart  P. schisticeps
  c12 N of Xining on 5th & 10+ at Mengda on 14th. 

Daurian Redstart  P. auroreus
  One showed well at Mengda in the afternoon of 15th.

Guldenstadt's Redstart  P. erythrogaster
  On 10th one at The Gully & four en route, in the Er La pass area c5 on 11th & 15 on 12th, and at Wenquan two on 11th.

River Chat  Chaimarrornis leucocephalus
  28 bird-days. Singles at The Gully on 10th & at Mengda on 15th, five in total en route on 6+12+13th, and an unexpected 21 along a roadside stream near Xunhua on 16th.

Plumbeous Redstart  Rhyacornis fuliginosus
  One in valley W of Xining on 6th & one en route on 13th.

White-bellied Redstart  Hodgsonius phoenicuroides
  c13 bird-days at Mengda over 14-16th. A very skulky species: only KK managed to get good views of a male!

Stonechat  Saxicola torquata
  Two at Heimahe (ssp. maura: PS-H) on 7th & one en route on 10th was rather fewer than we had expected...

Isabelline Wheatear  Oenanthe isabellina
  36 bird-days. Fairly common at Koko Nor & in the desert/ex-commune area, and recorded also S of Gonghe on
10th (incl. two at The Temple).

Pied Wheatear  O. pleschanka
  Singles at Xining Beishan on 4th & at Gonghe (EAH) on 10th, and three in the Huang He valley on 16th.

Desert Wheatear  O. deserti
  On 7th 8-10 in desert W of Koko Nor & five at the ex-commune; elsewhere just one at Gonghe on 10th.

Chestnut Thrush  Turdus rubrocanus
  Mengda yielded four on 14th & 8+ on 15th.

"Dark"-throated Thrush  T. ruficollis
  Three in scrub at Rubber Mt. on 8th, and one (heard: JH) flying over at Wenquan in morning of 11th.
  Earliest autumn date for Golmud, Zaidam, was 7 September (JH pers. obs.).

Chinese Song Thrush  T. mupinensis
  Singles seen at Mengda on 15th (NPD) & 16th (KK) was rather fewer than expected/hoped for...

Lanceolated Warbler  Locustella lanceolata
  One 1st cy bird was seen briefly at Laoye Shan on 5th (EAH).
  Apparently the first record for Qinghai/Tibet: not included for the region by Cheng (1987), deSchauensee (1984) or Vaurie (1972).

Blyth's Leaf Warbler  Phylloscopus reguloides
  At Mengda three on 14th & ten on both 15+16th.

Greenish Warbler  P. trochiloides
  One N of Xining on 5th; 2-3 daily at Mengda over 14-16th.

Arctic Warbler  P. borealis
  Two at Summer Palace, Beijing, on 3rd were seen well by all members of the group.

Buff-barred Leaf Warbler  P. pulcher
  One at Mengda on 14th (NPD, KK).

Gansu Leaf Warbler  P. kansuensis
  c25 in forest N of Xining on 5th, and 50+ bird-days in total at Mengda over 14-16th.

Chinese Leaf Warbler  P. sichuanensis
  2-8 were recorded daily at Mengda over 14-16th.

Yellow-browed Warbler  P. inornatus
  10+ at Summer Palace, Beijing, on 3rd.

Hume's Leaf Warbler  P. humei mandelli
  c10 in forest N of Xining on 5th, one en route the next day, 3+ at Gonghe on 10th, and c20 bird-days at Mengda over 14-15th.

Yellow-streaked Warbler  P. armandii
  c30 N of Xining on 5th & 15-20 daily at Mengda over 14-16th.

Dusky Warbler  P. fuscatus
  c19 bird-days: c15 at Rubber Mt. on 8th & singles at Heimahe, Gonghe, The Temple & The Gully...
Tickell's Leaf Warbler  P. offinis
  52+ bird-days: 12 N of Xining on 5th, three at the ex-commune on 7th, c25 at Rubber Mt. on 8th, five at The Temple & 4+ in The Gully on 10th, and three in total at Mengda over 14-16th.

Goldcrest  Regulus regulus
  c10 in forest N of Xining on 5th & six at Mengda on both 14+15th.

Stoliczka's Tit-warbler  Leptopoecile sophiae
  c20 at forest edge N of Xining on 5th, ten on Rubber Mt. on 8th & four in The Gully on 10th.

Crested Tit-warbler  L. elegans
  c30 in forest N of Xining on 5th & five at Mengda on 14th.
  A main prize for anyone visiting the forests of the region - and we all got great, eye-level views of both sexes as they fed energetically on spruce branches, disappearing and reappearing in the manner of similar-sized Goldcrests.

Slaty Blue Flycatcher  Ficedula tricolor
  What may have been the same male was heard singing at Mengda on both 15+16th.

Slaty-backed Flycatcher  F. hodgsonii
  c20 bird-days at Mengda over 14-16th.
  Evidently a common bird, but frustratingly hard to get satisfactory views of...

Red-throated Flycatcher  F. (parva) albicilla
  Three at Summer Palace, Beijing, on 3rd included a male in breeding plumage. Farther W a juvenile favoured a marsh-side fence at the Koko Nor lagoon on 9th; the next day the Gonghe copse yielded three birds & The Temple one.
  
Yellow-rumped Flycatcher  F. zanthopygia
  A 1st cy bird at the ex-commune unfortunately gave us the slip before we had all seen it properly.
  Apparently the first record for Tibet: the W-most localities listed for the species by Cheng (1987) are SE Gansu & E Sichuan.

Pere David's Laughingthrush  Garrulax davidi
  3+ heard in forest N of Xining on 5th (JH); eventually seen well at Mengda with two on 15th & one on 16th.

Giant Laughingthrush  G. maximus
  Common and vocal at Mengda: 10-20 noted daily over 14-16th.

Elliot's Laughingthrush  G. elliotii
  c10 N of Xining on 5th; at Mengda daily up to 15+ over 13-16th.

Long-tailed Tit  Aegithalos caudatus
  Seen on both 15+16th at Mengda, with no less than three flocks totalling c20 birds on the first date.
  Fine views obtained, allowing all of us to ascertain that the local ssp. vinaceus looks strikingly different from
"our own"...

White-browed Tit  Parus superciliosus
  Seven at Rubber Mt. on 8th.

Songar Tit  P. songarus
  25+ in forest N of Xining on 5th; at Mengda up to 20+ daily over 14-16th.

Yellow-bellied Tit  P. venustulus
  Two at Summer Palace, Beijing, on 3rd were considered a great bonus (a write-in endemic for the list!); singles at Mengda on 15th (a 1st cy bird) & 16th (presumably a different bird heard: JH).
  Though the species was listed for N Sichuan & S Gansu by Cheng (1987), there appear to be no previous records for Qinghai/Tibet.

Rufous-vented Tit  P. rubidiventris
  30+ in spruce forest N of Xining on 5th; c15 at Mengda on both 14+15th...

Great Tit  P. major
  21 bird-days. Recorded on five dates N of Xining, en route on 6+13th, at Mengda & in the Huang He valley.

Chinese Nuthatch  Sitta villosa
  Four N of Xining on 5th; c14 bird-days at Mengda (2-6 daily over 14-16th).
  Superb views at Mengda of an adult w/ a 1st cy bird feeding in a paperbark birch at close range...

Przevalski's Nuthatch  S. leucopsis przewalskii
  Two at Dongxia on 5th rewarded us with unforgettable views as close as 1 m (KK), while three at Mengda on 14th merely "showed well".

Wallcreeper  Tichodroma muraria
  Two in song-/display flight at Rubber Mt. on 8th came close to over-fulfilling expectations concerning this mythic species! An additional two birds were noted at The Gully on 10th.

Common Treecreeper  Certhia familiaris
  Noted only N of Xining (six on 5th) & at Mengda (5-6 birds on both 14+15th).

Chestnut-flanked White-eye  Zosterops erythropleurus
  At Mengda three on both 14+16th, and 20 on 15th.
  Though not included for Qinghai/Tibet in the standard works on bird distribution (Cheng 1987, Vaurie 1972,
deSchauensee 1984) the species is to be expected at Mengda in late summer/early autumn: JH pers. obs.

Isabelline Shrike  Lanius isabellinus
  Three bird-days: singles at the ex-commune on 7th, at Gonghe & The Temple on 10th.

Grey-backed Shrike  L. tephronotus
  Seven bird-days: two at Xining Beishan on 4th, one en route the next day, a 1st cy bird at the ex-commune on 7th, 2+ at Gonghe on 10th, and one en route on 13th.

[Tibetan Grey Shrike  L. (sphenocercus) giganteus
  A shrike on a wire S of Heka pass on 12th flew off before certain identification could be made...]

Jay  Garrulus glandarius
  14 bird-days: 3-6 daily at Mengda over 14-16th.

Azure-winged Magpie  Cyanopica cyanus
  c30 at Summer Palace, Beijing, on 3rd, four at roadside S of Minhe on 13th, and eight in the Huang He valley on 16th.

Common Magpie  Pica pica
  Noted in the Beijing area over 3-4th, N of Xining on 5th, en route to Koko Nor on 6th, and at Gonghe on 10th.

Henderson's Ground Jay  Podoces hendersoni
  Four in desert W of Koko Nor on 7th.

Hume's Ground-pecker  Pseudopodoces humilis
  175+ bird-days. Noted on eight days in the Koko Nor/ Rubber Mt. area, en route on 10th, at Er La pass, Wenquan & on pass near Xunhua on 16th.

Nutcracker  Nucifraga caryocatactes
  Much in evidence at Mengda with 10-20 seen daily over 14-16th.

Red-billed Chough  Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax
  48+ bird-days. Recorded on ten dates at Xining Beishan, N of Xining, in valleys W of Xining, along Koko Nor, over Rubber Mt., at Gonghe, Mengda (eight on 14th) & along the Huang He.

Carrion Crow  Corvus corone
  2+ N of Xining on 5th.

Large-billed Crow  C. macrorhynchos
  Two at Summer Palace, Beijing, on 3rd, c10 N of Xining on 5th, and 5-15 daily at Mengda over 14-16th.

Raven  C. corax
  Four flying over at Wenquan as we were having breakfast on 11th; two at Er La pass on both 11+12th.

[Crested Myna  Acridotheres cristellatus  [presumed feral]
  Three at Summer Palace, Beijing, on 3rd.]

Tree Sparrow  Passer montanus
  Common - seen most days.

Rock Sparrow  Petronia petronia
  c78 bird-days: a flock of 30 in desert W of Koko Nor on 7th, three at Rubber Mt. the next day, four at Heimahe & ten at Gonghe pass on 9th, two at Gonghe & four at Wenquan on 10th, and c25 at Wenquan on 11th.

Blanford's Snowfinch  Pyrgilauda blanfordi
  c12 in desert W of Koko Nor on 7th yielded prolonged views at point-blank range...

Rufous-necked Snowfinch  P. ruficollis
  c35 bird-days. Noted on five dates at Rubber Mt., Gonghe pass, en route on 10th, and daily (max c20 on 12th) in the Er La pass/Wenquan area.

Pere David's Snowfinch  P. davidiana
  At Koko Nor lagoon one on 6th (EAH) & five on 9th; at Heimahe one 1st cy bird on 7th.

White-rumped Snowfinch  P. taczanowskii
  c62 bird-days. Noted on six dates in the Koko Nor area (max c10 on 6th), at Rubber Mt., en route S on 10th & up to 30 (incl. a flock of 20) in the Er La pass area on 11+12th.

Tibetan Snowfinch  Montifringilla adamsii
  c20 at Gonghe pass on 9th & c30 in The Gully on 10th.

Eurasian Snowfinch  M. nivalis henrici
  c20 at Er La pass on 12th.

Oriental Greenfinch  Carduelis sinica
  Two at Summer Palace, Beijing, on 3rd, one at the ex-commune on 7th, six in roadside poplars S of Minhe on 13th & one near the Huang He on 16th.

Twite  C. flavirostris
  Six in desert W of Koko Nor on 7th, on Rubber Mt. 5-6 on both 7+8th, 20+ in The Gully on 10th & one on pass near Xunhua on 16th.
 
Red Crossbill  Loxia curvirostra
  Heard N of Xining on 5th & at Mengda on 14th.

Brandt's Mountain Finch  Leucosticte brandti
  3+ seen well at Er La pass on 12th.

Desert Finch  Rhodospiza obsoleta
  A flock of c25 at the ex-commune on 7th. 

Common Rosefinch  Carpodacus erythrinus
  Singles at the ex-commune on 7th, at Gonghe on 10th & at Mengda on 15+16th.

Beautiful Rosefinch  C. pulcherrimus
  c10 in The Gully on 10th.

Sinai Rosefinch  C. synoicus
  Seven at Xining Beishan on 4th.

White-browed Rosefinch  C. thura
  40+ in forest N of Xining on 5th & 10-12 bird-days at Mengda over 14-16th.

Eastern Great Rosefinch  C. rubicilloides
  One (heard: JH) on Rubber Mt. on 8th; 'scope views of c10 in The Gully on 10th.

Great Rosefinch  C. rubicilla
  Five (two males w/ three female or juveniles) showed well alongside the preceding species at The Gully on 10th.

Roborovski's Rosefinch  Kozlowia roborowskii
  Nine at Er La pass on 12th included an approachable, pink male - Hooray!!!

Long-tailed Rosefinch  Uragus sibiricus
  3-4 birds seen at Mengda on both 15+16th. One was a male...

Przevalski's Rosefinch  Urocynchramus pylzowi
  8+ on Rubber Mt. on 8th.
  A very retiring endemic...

Grey-headed Bullfinch  Pyrrhula erythaca
  c19 bird-days at Mengda over 14-16th.

White-winged Grosbeak  Mycerobas carniceps
  Recorded on four dates N of Xining (heard: JH), The Gully (heard: JH) & at Mengda on 14th (10+ seen & photographed: NPD, KK) & 15th (2+ heard).

Black-faced Bunting  Emberiza spodocephala
  Four - very likely a family party - perched on a wire at Gonghe on 10th, allowing prolonged 'scope viewing at close range.

Pine Bunting  E. leucocephalos
  c15 on a pass near Xunhua on 16th finished the tour with a flourish!

Godlewski's Rock Bunting  E. godlewskii
  Two at Xining Beishan on 4th, one at Rubber Mt. on 8th (EAH) & six in the Mengda/Huang He valley area on 16th.

Pattedyr
af Hans Meltofte

Uldhare Lepus oiostolus
 Fem set i ørkenen ved Chaka den 7.9., en ved 'Gummipasset' den 8.9. og en på vejen til Gonghe den 9.9.

Black-lipped Pica (Musehare)  Ochotona daurica/curzoniae
 Masser under hele opholdet omkring Koko Nor og Er La passet.

Chinese Red Pica Ochotona erythrotis
 En musehare med store orange ører set i 'Grand Canyon' den 16.9. var mest sandsynligt denne art.

Stribet Egern  Tamiops swinhoei
 En ved Sommerpaladset den 3.9. og 2 ved Mengda den 14.9.

Himalayamurmeldyr  Marmota himalayana
 En nord for Gonghe den 9.9. og syv nord for Er La passet dagen efter.

Stoliczka's Mountain Vole  Alticola stoliczkanus
 Set i Er La passet den 11.9.

Rød Ræv Vulpes vulpes
 Et usædvanligt stort og smukt eksemplar ved Koko Nor den 6.9.

Bjergvæsel Mustela altaica
 En med en dræbt musehare nord for Gonghe den 9.9.

Brud/Dværgvæsel Mustela nivalis
 En lille væsel set flygtigt nord for Gonghe den 9.9. kan kun være denne art.

Eversmans Ilder  M. eversmanni
 Et utrolig smukt eksemplar jagtede museharer ved åen øst for Koko Nor den 9.9.